The following account is based on an article published by The New York Times on November 7, 1954, in Section F, page 6.
On November 6, 1874, three men combined their experience to establish a new menswear business in New York. The company would eventually bear the names of two of them: Marvin N. Rogers, a clothing manufacturer, and Charles B. Peet, a clothing wholesaler, both of whom died shortly after the business was founded.
The third partner, Frank R. Chambers, went on to build Rogers Peet Company and remained closely associated with its direction until his death in 1940, at the age of 89.
Looking back on the company’s development, president Phillips Roome Turnbull described its progress as slow and deliberate. Rogers Peet preferred evolution to revolution, an approach that reflected both the way the business was run and the clothes it sold.
Trust as a Business Principle
From the beginning, Rogers Peet placed unusual emphasis on transparency. At a time when caveat emptor — “let the buyer beware” — remained a common principle in retail, the company was among the early menswear businesses to label garments with information about their fabric composition.
Cloth received from American and English mills was also tested before reaching the customer. Frank R. Chambers appears to have taken this responsibility rather literally: according to the article, he tested the weather resistance of fabrics by placing samples on the roof of the company building and leaving the elements to do the rest.
It is a small detail, but an revealing one. Rather than simply making claims about quality, Rogers Peet tried to understand how a cloth would actually perform.
Money Back, 1880
In 1880, Rogers Peet introduced a money-back policy for dissatisfied customers, an unusual practice in menswear retail at the time. The company also followed the fixed-price system pioneered by John Wanamaker in Philadelphia, replacing bargaining with clearly marked prices.
There was one exception: members of the clergy received a ten percent discount, a practice that later became more common.
Rogers Peet was conservative in some respects, but advertising was not one of them. In 1879, the company became an early retail advertiser to use illustrations of specific products and adopted a lighter, more direct tone than much of the commercial language of the period. Cartoons also appeared in its advertising at a time when they were still unusual in retail communication.
The approach was practical: make the product easier to understand and make the business easier to trust.
A New York Business
Rogers Peet continued to grow and, at its height, operated twelve stores across New York. As retail gradually moved toward larger individual locations, the company consolidated its operations.
By the time the article was published in 1954, Rogers Peet operated stores at Broadway and Warren Street, Fifth Avenue and Forty-first Street, and Fifth Avenue and Forty-eighth Street, as well as a location in Boston.
Its wholesale business extended the Rogers Peet name to more than forty American cities, giving the company a presence well beyond Manhattan while keeping New York at the centre of its identity.
Learning the Business
Phillips Roome Turnbull joined Rogers Peet in 1920 after studying wool weaving in Scottish mills. He began in the tailoring department and later spent time across the different areas of the company, developing a practical understanding of how the business worked from cloth to customer.
His progression through the company was steady. He became assistant secretary, assistant treasurer and director in 1921, treasurer in 1923, vice president in 1928 and president in 1937. His father had held the same position from 1916 until his death in 1923.
During Turnbull’s thirty-four years with Rogers Peet, menswear changed considerably. Clothes became lighter as heating improved in buildings and public transport, man-made fibres found an increasingly important place in the market, and shorter working hours together with suburban life created new demand for leisurewear.
The wardrobe changed because everyday life was changing with it.
Looking Ahead
Asked what the future might hold, Turnbull avoided making grand predictions. He expected dark colours to remain popular and believed synthetic fibres would prove most useful when blended with natural materials rather than replacing wool or silk altogether.
He anticipated only modest changes to the narrow lapels and natural shoulders then in fashion, and despite the growth of suburban shopping, he believed the strongest market for better clothing would remain in the city.
His view of progress was measured. Rogers Peet should remain current, but not simply for the sake of novelty. What still worked was worth keeping; what no longer did could be reconsidered.
According to Turnbull, the company had managed to strike that balance. He believed both his father and Frank R. Chambers would have recognised the Rogers Peet stores of 1954 and, more importantly, approved of what the company had become.
